Saturday, June 17, 2006

June 16, Tahuatu, Marquesas

The strong winds that have prevailed were predicted to subside. With this information I weighed anchor on 14 June bound for Tahuatu, an island about 45 miles northwest of Hiva Oa. I was happy to be sailing again. By 1300 hrs. I pulled into the lee of Tahuatu and the real fun began. In the lee there are a few minutes of gentle breeze followed by very strong gusts lasting a minute or two. I severely shortened sail just in time to avoid the worst of it, though at one point I was on deck adjusting the running back stay when a gust hit. The auto pilot could not hold the boat from turning up which laid her over into a broach. I thought we might go over like we did so often in the race boat but Rasa just spilled her wind and came back on her feet. Yes, I was harnessed and tethered.
The only habitation in this cove is a little shack above the surf line among the coconut palms. There were two or three people out, each waving in greeting. One was burning coconut husks and the others were attending. The gusts hardly enter this cove and my night's sleep was exceptionally restful. After two rather crowded anchorages I find myself alone here. The ridge of the island rises abruptly several hundred feet above the shore. There are some rock cliffs shining through the vegetation and when it rains the water spouts over them. The trees are a dense mass or variegated greens and textures. All the rock is black, young, volcanic.
It rained heavily overnight and all day, 15 June. It rains in bursts of several minutes. During a dry moment I put the dink in the water, thinking that I would go over to the next cove where there is a landing and stretch my legs. But it kept on raining until later afternoon. The dink had four inches of water in it!
On the 16th I finally rowed to the landing. The village is small and exceptionally beautiful. There are ancient stone ruins in the center of things: quite extensive low walls of lava rock facings filled with coral pieces, and stone paved terraces. Beside it was a small Christian cemetery and a small stone church, quite handsome.
I stopped and talked to some young men who spoke some English. They asked what I wanted in the village. I told them I was looking for fruit. They laughed and told me to pick the papaya along the road. One man is a carver. I asked to see his work. We walked to his house along a raised, narrow roadway buttressed with lava rock just above the beach. He hauled out his machete, a stout knife about 20 inches long and pulled down a bunch of bananas, far more than I could ever eat, and whacked them off. Then he showed me his lemon tree and we picked some lemons. Then he offered me some coconuts. I was all set.
He showed me some of his work which demonstrated a strong sense of design and considerable skill in carving traditional designs in shell, boar tusk, bone, marlin backbone, mother of pearl. How I wanted to buy some of his work! But until I reach Nuku Hiva I don't have the cash. I had some trade goods in my backpack and left him with a bar of soap. He hardly needed it. It was clear that he was making a good living. The prices of his work ranged from $140 to $6000. His house is big and nicely painted. It turns out that a boat load of tourists from all over the world, about a hundred at a time, stop in this village once a month. They are fed and entertained then walk around and visit his workshop. He also sells in Papeete twice a year. He does pretty well. He's 25 years old.


Blogger Zheng junxai5 said...

michael kors outlet clearance
louis vuitton handbags
michael kors handbags
longchamp outlet
michael kors bags
kate spade outlet
michael kors outlet clearance
nike air max uk
cheap toms
coach outlet
adidas stan smith
gucci outlet
michael kors outlet online
coach outlet online
toms outlet
coach outlet clearance
adidas originals
asics running shoes
adidas running shoes
ralph lauren
christian louboutin wedges
giuseppe zanotti outlet
michael kors purses
adidas wings
kobe 10
replica rolex watches
louis vuitton outlet online
jordan retro 11
replica watches
retro 11
toms wedges
michael kors outlet clearance
jordan 3 powder blue
true religion jeans
jordan retro 8
air jordan shoes
oakley vault
michael kors outlet clearance
nike uk
louis vuitton bags

7:18 PM  
Blogger Justin said...

In the event that you are occupied with purchasing an auto in Australia then there are loads of organizations which can help you in regards to auto fund Australia. To discover appropriate account for your auto you have to ensure that you make certain stride. car title loans chicago

11:06 PM  
Blogger Paulo said...

Incidentally, by investigating and looking at the best obligation union organizations in the market, you will have the capacity to decide the one that meet your particular money related circumstance, in addition to the less expensive financing costs advertised.

1:19 AM  
Blogger Paulo said...

One of the principle worries with being affirmed for understudy credits for your youngster's school instruction is discovering advances that don't have extravagant loan costs and that are arranged to spare you however much cash as could be expected. Cash Advance Chicago

10:22 AM  
Blogger Paulo said...

Albeit associated these three terms show a not at all like level of endorsement of the pre affirmed credits, by the loaner. These terms have been known to jumble land merchants themselves, thus excessively purchasers and dealers of homes. Check Cashing Corona

1:05 AM  

Post a Comment

<< Home