Pago Pago American Samoa, Sept. 12

We left Suwarrow on September 1 headed for Pago Pago, American Samoa – an unexpected destination- to look for new batteries, a doctor, prescription refills, and, according to legend, Wal-mart, Costco, a stinky, polluted anchorage, and rude natives. Less than 450 miles away, should be an easy three days with favorable winds forecast, and not really out of the way to Tonga.

Day One of the passage was as advertised. Day Two, definitely harder. Day Three the winds died, the rain came, and the autopilot stopped working. What rain it was – soaking, pouring – like the Northwest on many Labor Days, only about 20 degrees warmer. Stuck on the wheel, it was time for the Gore-Tex, the fleece, hot liquids, and hard two hour watches through the night. The winds and seas kicked in overnight and when we finally saw the magnificent island out of the fog, huge breakers were spraying 100 feet of water up onto the cliffs. The pass was fine and we made it in safely into the magnificently situated but filthy harbor of Pago Pago.

The water is the color of orange pekoe tea, littered with plastic everywhere. Starkist and Chicken of the Sea both have big tuna canneries here right on the water that create an incredible stench when the conditions are wrong. There is a container port and big ships coming in and out. Other than that, the harbor – which is the capital of the territory - is a string of little villages with not much in them except a handful of small businesses and government offices. It’s easy to get anywhere on the colorful little buses or by walking. And it rains a lot.

We have been here almost a week. Other than the awful conditions in the anchorage, we have found American Samoa to be a delight. From our first contact the people have been friendly, gone out of their way to be helpful, and extended invitations. There is a smile on everyone’s face and interest in who we are and sharing Samoa with us. There is a warehouse store by the airport, but it isn’t a Costco or a Wal-Mart. It is easy to get things done here (English is everyone’s second language) and it is easy to go places by walking or on the colorful little buses. They use the US dollar and the US Postal Service, there are English language newspapers and NPR radio news. Prices are reasonable. Palangi (white people) are here as government workers, to do business, or to live the tropical life but there is virtually no tourism.

We accomplished many of our errands including fixing the autopilot and visits to the LBJ Tropical Medical Center, which is the only place to get treatment or medicines. Locals pay $100 to have a baby, $150 for C-Sections. Non-residents pay $600 and $1500 respectively, courtesy of Uncle Sam. Such a deal, no wonder the birth rate is high. We were honored guests at a church on Sunday where we got to hear four choirs sing, have visited the museum, hung out at the Yacht Club, eaten some good meals off the boat. There is a lot still on the fun to-do list – touring the island, seeing mountains and rainforest in the National Park right above the harbor, the marine sanctuary, going to a traditional Samoan feast, and a tour of the tuna cannery.